When is the Best Time to Plant Grass?

With the end of winter and  Spring ooming, it’s a critical time for some lawn maintenance. Late September and October are months that you need to get some planting done, and get the right feeding and weed maintenance done to ensure a beautiful bloom in the Spring.

There is some question on planting season. Some people believe that spring is best and some believe fall is best.

Spring or Fall Grass Planting – What’s the Right Answer?

It shouldn’t be too complicated, but there are some important considerations.  This information is for anyone who lives in the Lumberjake.com service area – pretty much all of northern Virginia and extending west into Warrenton and Culpeper.  Here we have very mild fall and spring, with really hot summers.  In August and early September, grass can go dormant, as the oppressive heat turns off growing. If you’re not watering regularly during this time, your lawn is probably going brown.

After the heat leaves us, around mid-September, it’s time to start considering your fall planting and feed schedule.  After all, weeding your front beds and keeping leaves off the lawn in the fall is not the end of your yard work – the biggest part of your job involves the grass!

Grass grows best in certain conditions, so make sure you take a look at your yard and know the intricacies of how it grows and the conditions…Here are some considerations before your start.

• Pick the right grass seed for the weather and location in northern Virginia.
• How much sun and shade does your yard receive?
• If there is full sun, make note of it.
• Do you have any home renovation projects that could ruin the yard?
• Moist soil is needed for the germinating seeds, so get your sprinklers set.
• Weeds and foreign grasses should be removed, so make sure you line up your fertilizing schedule.
• All pest and disease problems should be taken care of. If you think there is some fungus or pest problems, you may need to have a professional inspect.
• Soil should be cultivated and soil additives or amendments applied.
• Limit foot traffic over the reseeded areas for 4-6 weeks after planting.

Overall, fall is a great time to plant. With grass growing in the fall, and then again in the Spring, there is some extra time before the new grass is exposed to drying heat of summer, and it will be that much stronger the following year. Additionally, spring can often over saturate the ground, and drown the germinating seeds before they have a chance to take root. Spring temperatures are also often too cool and delay germination.

Other reasons to plant in the fall…

By this time of year, pest and disease problems are at a minimum because of changing weather. Weeds are also less likely to grow like they do in early summer and spring. Since weeds are less of an issue, they don’t pull soil nutrients from your growing grass. Activities that are high stress to your grass, such as mowing, heat, traffic, weed competition, and inadequate watering are all less likely to occur during the fall-to-spring months, allowing a more relaxed and conducive growth environment.

This doesn’t mean you have to wait to regrow your yard. The summer months are particularly taxing, but if you are prepared to carefully monitor your yard, planting grass can occur at any time. Just be sure to keep the conditions optimal for germination, keep foot traffic free from the area, and water, water, water. The best time to plant is the most prepared time.

Adding Top Soil to Your Lawn – Reclaim Your Lawn

You’re trying to get your lawn in shape, but have lots of weeds, or moss or some other problem, the following steps will help you get started.

Topsoil and Compost Problems for 2020

When you are preparing your home remodeling projects and hardscape designs beware this year there are some considerations that aren’t typical. Since we’ve had a lot more rain than normal over the past year, we have very wet and clumpy topsoil. This is not only true for www.lumberjake.com, but for all topsoil and compost providers in the mid-Atlantic.

The clumpy topsoil problem is not too much of a problem for professional landscapers, but it often presents quite a challenge for a home do-it-yourselfer. When the topsoil is really clumpy, it is very difficult to spread. As such, homeowners may find it difficult to get the material spread evenly. Professional landscapers have two things going for them… First, they have man power. When the topsoil needs to be broken down and raked even, it helps to have an entire crew. Second, they have the right tools. Using soil spreaders can help, but they can become easily clogged. Having a commercial grade soil spreader can really help.

This spring you can expect your topsoil delivery to be a bit moist and clumpy, so be prepared to deal with it.

With the topsoil issue aside, here are the steps you need to take to get your lawn growing great this year.

1. De-Thatch your lawn. Thatch is the woven, un-decomposed grass and weed build up at the very top surface of your lawn. You may want to rent a power dethatcher for this. It’s usually around $50 for a few hours and you can bang out the job much quicker than with a hand rake.
2. Add your topsoil/or grow/compost. A good idea is to top dress the yard before over seeding. Lumberjake.com has several options depending on your needs. If you’re not sure what you need, give the Garden Center a call. Spread your top dressing across the yard in a thin layer – usually 1-2″. If you have depressions or low areas, you can fill them to level things out.  Order Topsoil or Orgrow Here.
3. Choose a seed that will match the growing conditions. It’s important to use a shade seed or a high sun seed to help your lawn grow best.
4. Water. When you first plant, you’ll want to water once or twice a day as directed on your chosen seed bag.

These steps should help you grow a beautiful lawn this summer. Order your top dressing today!

Land Clearing Grubbing & Excavation Services

Land clearing and grubbing is when we completely remove all of the trees, vegetation and brush from a site. This is one of the first phases of development and requires knowhow, experience, and the right equipment to get the job done. Depending on the size and scope of the job at hand, various heavy machinery may be used and different techniques employed.

Land Clearing and Grubbing

In a land clearing and grubbing job, trees may be pushed over and removed with roots left on, or trees may be cut down, and then the stumps ground. This depends on the site requirements and either can be accommodated. In both cases, the resulting materials can be repurposed. JK Enterprise makes the most of these resources and will grind and prepare the materials in to forestry products that can be re-used.

Professional Services for Land Clearing

There are some occasions where a site can be cleared without professional help, but for almost all commercial jobs, machinery and the right people behind the process are needed.

People play a big role in the effectiveness of a land clearing operation as the experience on site can make for a much faster and efficient process. Moreover, understanding the local laws and regulations can be a huge benefit and save time and money as the site progresses.

Site Development Planning

When JK Enterprise comes onto a land clearing and grubbing job, care is taken to properly evaluate the area and work with the site management to plan for the proper work. Our state of the art machinery is brought in and the work completed, leaving the site ready for the next phase of development. Depending on the time frames involved, there may be instances where land covering is needed after the clearing operation is complete, as the raw soil left after clearing is vulnerable to rain, weather and erosion.

JK Enterprise has the experience, people, and equipment needed to make your land clearing and grubbing job easy. Call us today and talk to one of our commercial site experts about your project. We’ll be glad to help.

Commercial Excavating Services

JK Enterprise provides commercial excavating and truck services to clients all across northern Virginia, Maryland and Washington DC. For any type of land clearing or site work, we can help with various excavators or trucks.

Commercial Excavation Services

Commercial excavation projects come in all shapes and sizes, and the site work needs can be just as varied. JK Enterprise has the people, experience and machinery to get the job done.

With over 20 years of commercial excavating experience, our operators know how to work with you to determine the scope of the job and get it done without costly mistakes or delays.

Beyond Commercial Excavating

Not only can we help you with commercial excavation projects, but we can also help in other areas of site development too.

Here is just a short list of some of our heavy equipment:

• Diamond Z Tub Grinder
• Precision Whole Tree Chipper
• Hogzilla Tub Grinder
• Extec Trommel Screener
• Retech Trommel Screener
• Freightliner Mulch Blower Trucks
• Hitachi Excavators w/Thumbs
• Precision Tub Grinder
• 5-Yard Kawasaki Wheel Loaders
• 963 Caterpillar Loaders
• Tandem and Tri-Axle Dump Trucks
• Tractors and Low-Boy Trailer
• Roll-Off Truck and Containers
• Tractors and Walking Floor Trailers

As you can see from this list, if you need help with a commercial excavating job, JK Enterprise if the company to call.

Originally Seen At: 

COMMERCIAL EXCAVATING & LAND CLEARING SERVICES IN NORTHERN VA

Popular Mulch Choices for Delivery This Year!

Mulch is mulch, is it not? Not exactly. Mulch is a basic term for the subset of organic products used to adorn and protect the ground in your garden; mulch helps to keep plants’ roots warm and nourished while improving the condition of the soil and reducing overall water consumption. Hardwood bark mulch is a common choice among Gainesville VA homeowners, but there are other options to consider when planning your spring garden and beds.

Shredded hardwood mulch

Shredded hardwood mulch lends a seamlessly natural look to landscaped garden beds and wooded scenes; JK Enterprise Landscape Supply often recommends the use of shredded hardwood for creating paths and trails. Choose shredded hardwood for steep slopes and areas likely to flood, too, because this mulch isn’t all about aesthetics — providing a solid layer of protection against unwanted moisture.

Cedar mulch

Cedar mulch smells so good. As the wood’s natural oils break down, the air is filled with a pleasant odor, and what’s more: insects be gone! Cedar mulch is a great choice for Gainesville VA homeowners who struggle with termites and other infestation. You might choose to line delicate garden beds with cedar mulch, for its fine texture will never overwhelm your prize perennials.

Colored mulch

Usually made of hardwood and shredded, dyed mulch comes in red, black, or dark brown and is delivered bagged or bulk. Colored mulch really makes a statement.  Dyed and naturally colored wood mulch are equal in performance property.

Order online today!  You’ll be just in time to get your yard ready for Easter and then the hot summer (it’s coming!).

Chimney Fires – Don’t Let it Happen to You

It's that time of year! All of your neighbors are calling and placing orders online for firewood delivery in northern Virginia. Of course we’re happy to send you the perfectly seasoned, neatly stacked firewood you expect.

But you have to be safe with it.

The first chimney fire in northern Virginia of the season was reported last week, and every year we see them happen to families across the area. What’s such a shame is that these fires are often preventable!

Chimney fires don’t need to happen.

There are some simple steps you can take to make sure your fireplace and chimney are safe to use in your home.

Our friends over at the Hearth, Patio and Barbecue Association have put together some guidelines for making sure your fireplace is safe to use and will avoid the danger of chimney fires.  You can get the entire fire safety report here.

Here are the highlights:

• Have the chimney inspected annually, and cleaned as necessary, by a professional chimney sweep to ensure it’s clear of obstructions and
  creosote.
• Have a cap installed at the top of the chimney to avoid the possibility that debris or animals can block the chimney.
• Install both a smoke and carbon monoxide detector. (Make sure the batteries work.)
• Keep a fire extinguisher on hand.
• Make sure the area around the fireplace is clear of furniture, books, newspapers and other potentially flammable materials. (Two feet away is the minimum.)

Although LumberJake.com sells firewood online, natural wood burning fireplaces are not the only place danger may lurk this time of year. Gas fireplaces are also very common in houses across the area.

As with wood burning fireplaces, there are some precautions you should take with gas fed fireplaces too. When a service tech comes out to service your gas fireplace, here are the things they should inspect and adjust as needed:

• Adjust millivolt output
• Clean and adjust the glowing embers and logs for best appearance.
• Clean the fan and related air circulation passages.
• Clean the glass.
• Check the batteries in the carbon monoxide detector.
• Ensure the vents are unobstructed and able to do their job.

These common sense precautions will help avoid tragedy and make your winter season happy and warm!

Don’t forget to stock up on wood now – supplies will run low before long. Get a half cord of wood delivered so you have it for Christmas (Santa likes a nice warm fire, chimney climbing notwithstanding.)

Protect Your Garden When Winter Comes to Gainesville

Have you heard? HA. Right. Have you stepped outside? Brr! We’ve got that pesky polar vortex to thank for wind chills in the teens and an ice storm that threatens to disrupt holiday travel plans from Virginia to Maine. After a hot, hot summer and a warmer than average fall Gainesville VA homeowners are stunned with the early and sudden arrival of winter.

But perhaps no one, nothing is caught more unaware by winter’s first icing than the plants in your garden. Go on and bundle up; in advance of this weekend’s forecast extreme weather, take a few minutes to take special care of your landscape.

Keep your plants well hydrated.

Dry, winter conditions aren’t kind to human skin, nor to Christmas trees, shrubs, and other evergreen plants. As these plants continue to lose moisture through their leaves, less is available in the air — and so need watering more often. Well-hydrated plans are hardier and more likely to survive a hard freeze or ice.

Cover and protect your most fragile plants.

There are plants that will easily withstand whatever Mother Nature has in store, but others need a bit of added protection. Cover your flowerbeds with a healthy layer of hardwood mulch from JK Enterprise Landscape Supply, which helps trap moisture in the ground and keeps plants’ roots warm. Keep falling snow, ice, and sleet from penetrating the surface of the ground with a windscreen; this can be achieved with two stakes and a surface of burlap. Woven burlap allows air to pass, simultaneously trapping the warm air inside and allowing for proper oxygen flow unlike plastic tarping.

Spread your salt, but do it carefully.

Salt is an effective way to prepare steps and walkways before a winter storm, but it’s important to note that when spread too far and too wide, it can negatively affect the life of your plants and trees. Salt dehydrates. Minimize the risk by using a more environmentally friendly alternative like calcium magnesium acetate. CMA is both biodegradable and non-corrosive, and poses little to no risk to animals, plants, and the rust-prone metal underneath your vehicles.

Bring potted plants indoors.

This is necessary and should happen any time temperatures drop below 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Perennials, shrubs, and trees that have spread roots underground find warmth from ground cover and wind barriers, but potted plants are far more vulnerable to damage from wind and ice. Bring them inside to bloom another day.

To learn more about protecting your garden when winter comes to Gainesville, and how premium hardwood mulch can help, contact JK Enterprise Landscape Supply at (703) 810-3654.

BENEFITS OF MULCH DELIVERY

There are few things that spruce up a property so quickly as a thick layer of mulch spread neatly around foundation plantings, perennials and trees. You can even add it in side yards and along pathways where grass can be thin and weedy.

In fact, once you start thinking about the places you can use mulch, you’ll realize that the little bags you’re buying just aren’t going to cut it. A large bag of mulch will only cover an area 3’x4’. That’s about the area under one dwarf tree.

Luckily, there is an alternative to hauling dozens of wet, dirty plastic bags in the trunk of your car– bulk mulch delivery.

The Benefits of Having Mulch Delivered

Mulch delivery is beneficial in many ways. First of all, there’s no tedious lifting and loading (then unloading) your car, and no multiple trips.

There are no wasteful plastic bags to dispose of, and we can deliver your mulch as close to the worksite as the dump truck can get. Trust us, you’ll appreciate it after the tenth wheelbarrow full.

There is a minimum order for bulk mulch delivery. It’s 10 cubic yards. It’s hard to visualize how much that is, but ten yards is enough to cover an area 30 ft by 36 ft, three inches deep. That might still seem like a tremendous amount, but when you’re outside, measurements seem very different.

Let’s do the math: say you own a ranch-style house with four-foot-wide foundation plantings on three sides (the fourth side is the driveway). The house measures 60 feet x30 feet.

(60×4)+(60×4)+(30×4)=240 + 240 +120 = 600 square feet, at three inches thick = 150 cubic feet or about 5.5 cubic yards. Don’t worry, we have a handy calculator for you to use, I’m just showing you the process.

That’s over half your truck load right there. If you have any trees or plantings in your yard, it won’t take too long to use up the rest, and you can always split a load with your neighbor. And if you have room to reserve a small pile, you won’t have to buy the bags to refresh your mulch next year.

It’s far more efficient, environmentally aware and just plain easier to have us drop off a truckload at your home. Call us today to schedule a delivery of the finest mulch money can buy! You won’t know how your home did without it.

TIPS FOR BUYING FIREWOOD

The nights, and even the days, are getting distinctly nippy, and even if you have a gas furnace, it’s cozy to have a fire going as the nights get chillier.

Luckily firewood is in great abundance locally. However, with the number of people selling firewood out of the back of their truck–literally– you can also get stuck with a bad batch if you don’t know what you’re looking for.

What to Look For in Firewood

You want two things in firewood, especially firewood you will be burning indoors: it must be seasoned (dry), and it must be hardwood.

The wood must be dry because when wood is freshly cut, it is up to 50% water by weight. Water, of course, does not burn, but must be heated up until it steams off to allow the wood itself to burn. Not only does this waste a tremendous amount of energy producing little heat, but it is very hard to do. Fires made with green firewood quickly smother themselves.

Additionally, because green firewood cannot burn very hot (having wasted so much energy steaming off the moisture) it causes a harmful chemical side-effect called creosote. Creosote is condensed volatile chemicals which are not fully burned off in a cooler fire. It forms in the inside of chimneys and stoves, and causes a fire hazard due to its flammability.

Creosote is also the reason for the second stipulation in firewood: Hardwood. Hardwood is wood from a deciduous tree; oak, elm, walnut, etc. Pine, on the other hand, is softwood, and softwood does not burn as hot as hardwood does, again, contributing to the formation of creosote.

How to Ensure Your Firewood is Seasoned

Unless you have amply storage space for wood, you will likely want to purchase only seasoned wood in order to be able to burn it this winter. If you do have ample storage space, though, it is often cheaper to buy green wood and dry it yourself.

Seasoned wood is not always easy to tell from green wood, but there are a few tell-tale signs. The first is weathering. At least some of the pieces will be a faded grey with the bark falling off.

There will also be deep cracks in the wood, called checking. Checking happens as the water evaporates off. Finally, when you clap two pieces of dried wood together, you should hear a hollow tchok, not a thud.

With this quick primer, your firewood buying should be simple and headache-free this winter.

Fall Garden Care: Winterizing Vegetable, Annual and Perennial Beds

Lots of people have their lawns and their trees, and aside from raking in the fall and maybe winterizing their lawns [link] there isn’t too much yardwork, even in the fall. But if you like to garden, plant, prune, harvest and weed, there’s a lot of work to be done in the fall before you oil your tools and put them away for the winter.

Let’s look at the most common gardener’s chores

Putting the Vegetable Garden to Bed

The last of summer’s bounty has been eaten or stored away. But what do you do with the desiccated stems and leaves that bore your crop of squashes, potatoes, and corn? Likely, you already have a compost pile. But don’t add them to it right away! If you have any compost that’s ready to go, you’ll want to take it out first so that you can top-dress your beds. Then you can add all the leftover plant matter from your garden. Don’t leave it there, or you can harbor disease in your soil.

Once you’ve cleared the plant material away, and added the compost, you may want to check the pH of your soil. If it’s too acidic, add lime. If too alkaline, add sulphur. You will want to do this in the fall because it will take several months to take effect. The spring will be too late!

Some people do not till in the autumn, since some experts say excessive tilling damages the structure of the soil, hastening erosion. However, you need to turn the compost (and lime or sulphur) under, and I would suggest that planting a winter cover crop like annual clover will build the soil and prevent erosion. The benefits of putting in a cover crop in the winter far outweigh the damage of the tilling.

Cleaning out Perennial Beds

Perennial beds are the ultimate in easy care. Simply clean out the dead plant matter, and lay down mulch. There is one argument against this; if you want to encourage the overwintering of certain insects, it’s best to leave the spent plants standing, as many types of insects hibernate in the hollow stems or amongst the leaf litter.

If this is the case, do not mulch, either. Simply leave the plant material as it is. It will form its own makeshift mulch and you can remove it in the spring and mulch it then.

Cleaning out Annual Beds

Annual beds are everblooming, ever cheerful. Luckily, Virginia’s winters are often mild enough that some annuals even survive the winter. Autumn chrysanthemums can last into January, and it doesn’t seem like anything can kill the hardy pansy!

However, annual beds do need some care. Since the constant rotation of blooms wears out the soil, be sure to compost generously, or even add a slow-release fertilizer if you like. Cleaning up any debris and adding a nice layer of mulch will help your little flowers shake off the cold and snow.

These autumn chores will keep you busy during the gorgeous fall weekends, but that’s just what a gardener loves, isn’t it? A good excuse to be out in the garden.

Green Landscaping Tips

With all the talk about the environment, it can be daunting to think that you could have any effect on such a large problem. But as our grandparents used to say in the Depression-era, “Take care of the pennies, and the dollars will take care of themselves.” There are many simple steps you can take right in your own backyard to do your part for nature.

Think Hard About Your Lawn

Although a lush green lawn has been the pride of homeowners for many years, it evolved as a sign of conspicuous consumption (to own land that wasn’t grazed or cultivated) and remains so today. Of course, you don’t need to raise chickens on it! But your lawn likely costs you a lot: you probably water it, fertilize it, and mow it weekly with a gas-powered mower. You might even spray weed-killer or pesticides on it. That’s a lot of time, money, and energy put into one little plot of land.

Instead, consider alternative solutions. There is xeriscaping, a type of landscaping that involves putting down rocks and gravel and a few plants that require little water. You can turn your lawn into a garden or orchard to feed your family and share with your neighbors. Or, you can simply plant it with low-maintenance perennials, trees and shrubs so that you spend the minimal time on yard work. Lawns, attractive as they are, are one of the most high-maintenance yard installations.

Be Water-Conscious

Though we get a lot of rain in Virginia, most people see it as a nuisance. You likely water your plants fairly regularly, but in most cases, plants could be self-maintaining. The trick is to get the water to stick around.

Most homes make sure water slopes away from them, and for good reason. But with a rain garden, you can capture much of that precious rain before it pours into the storm drains. The rain garden will create a reservoir of water in your soil that your whole yard will benefit from.

You can also set up rain barrels to capture the runoff from your gutter. If you install drip irrigation hoses from them you can ensure that you water with the deep soaking that is best for plants.

“Green” landscaping is not difficult or expensive. In fact, many of these solutions are “install and forget it” fixes. Try it for yourself and see!

Winterizing Your Lawn

http://www.lumberjake.com/

Most of us look with relief towards the falling of the leaves and the easing of the summer mowing schedule. However, if you want your lawn to look gorgeous next year, there are still some chores that need to be done.

It doesn’t take much to winterize your lawn. Take some time one weekend and get some exercise. You’ll be well rewarded when your lawn is the envy of the neighborhood next year.

Fertilize

Fall is really the best time to fertilize because you can use long-acting, more stable fertilizers that won’t encourage legginess or weaken the root systems of your grass.

The best way to fertilize is to rent a fertilizer spreader from a local hardware store. It will provide a more even and reliable method of delivery than a spray-on application.

When it comes to fertilizer, be careful. More is not better. More will kill your grass. Apply the fertilizer exactly as specified. No more, no less.

Aerate

The second step to a healthy lawn is aeration. Grasses have thick root systems that have a tendency to bind. Additionally, the soil tend to compact when it is walked on. Finally, “thatch,” or dead plant matter, builds up on the surface of the soil, choking the grass. Aeration solves all these problems.

Aeration is the act of removing plugs of soil from the lawn. This can be done with either a motorized aeration machine or with a special hand tool. When these plugs are removed, they allow the soil to gain more oxygen, they give the grass roots more room to expand into, and they allow any new grass seed to gain a foothold.

Reseeding

Reseeding is the most optional step. If your lawn is already thick and lush, you may not need to reseed. But in case you do, just purchase some cool weather grass seed like fescue and spread the seed using the fertilizer spreader from the first step.

Then, lightly rake the lawn to rough up the soil and get a little overtop of the seed. Finally, water lightly, but deeply, like a soaking drizzle. You will need to keep the grass seed evenly moist until it sprouts, but this is much easier to do on cool fall days than in the spring when things are heating up!

It only takes a few hours to winterize your lawn and have it primped and ready to go when the daffodils start sprouting in the spring.

Watering Methods for Your Garden

Although you would think we get enough rain in Northern Virginia to keep any sort of plant happy, in fact, sometimes you will have to supplement your plants’ water in order to keep them healthy.

There are several situations where rainwater might not be enough. New sod, for instance, needs to be kept consistently moist until it is well established -- it cannot wait three days for the next good downpour.

Trees sometimes do not fare well, especially in dry years or in urban settings. A mature oak can absorb 100 gallons of water per day, and if the groundwater is insufficient, it will wilt. This powerful thirst is not unique to oaks -- all trees need water. The big ones need more than the little ones, and the young ones will sometimes need supplementation because their roots are not yet deep enough to get at the ground water.

Runoff from poor soils can also be a factor. Two inches of rain does no good if it doesn’t soak into the ground. Sometimes the ground is too compacted for it to absorb, or the terrain is steep and the water washes away before it has a chance to soak in.

Proper Watering Techniques

As you can see, there are many situations in which is necessary to water. Watering by hand is by far the best option, because this enables you to put exactly as much water is needed, right where it will do the most good. A watering wand is the best tool for the job here.

Since it’s not possible sometimes to water by hand, soaker hoses or sprinklers can be used instead.

The rule of thumb is “water deeply and infrequently.” Except for new sod, this works for nearly all plants. The only thing that changes is the definition of “deeply” and “infrequently.” The idea is that you want to thoroughly saturate the root ball until it resembles a dripping sponge, and then allow it to absorb that water over a period of time, and not water again until it is barely damp.

So for your roses this might be every three days, and for your weeping cherry this might be every week or ten days.

Watering like this will encourage the roots to grow down deeply, rather than shallowly, because you will have “taught” the plant that the water is more plentiful the deeper it goes rather than close to the surface.

And of course, don’t forget to add a thick layer of mulch around your plants. This will hold rainwater long enough for it to soak in, and reduce evaporation so you can water less often. Good gardening!

Fall Fundraisers for School and Community Organizations

JK Enterprises is proud to be locally owned and rooted deep in Northern Virginia. And we love nothing more than giving back to the community. So allow us to suggest that any organization that relies on fundraising try our new program: selling mulch.

Our mulch is locally sourced, and aged to perfection, resulting in a rich, brown color that is highly sought after. The mulch is carefully produced from clean, high quality hardwoods that are rich in nutrients and slow to decompose. Additionally, the locally sourced materials means that there is less material going into local landfills. Be sure to tell your customers that they are being environmentally conscious!

People from nearly every walk of life can make use of mulch. It’s a great beautifier and practically a necessity for anyone who has a yard, or any business owner with any greenery around their buildings.

The wide appeal of our mulches will enable organizations to maximize their fundraising efforts in the fall season. Since most people already purchase mulch for their homes, why shouldn’t your organization be the one to supply it?

Here are a few of the most frequent questions we get about the program:

How Do We Get Started?

We recommend you pre-sell the mulch in order to generate positive cash flow before the delivery of your first tractor-trailer full of mulch. A full trailer equals about 1000-1600 bags of mulch, and we need at least a month’s notice to fill your order.

What Products Can We Sell?

We can supply you with any of our bagged products; however, we do require that you purchase at least one full pallet of any item. We recommend double-shredded mulch, cedar mulch, color-enhanced mulch, potting soil and/or topsoil/compost blend.

How Much Money Can We Raise?

Your group can often net $1.50 per bag, depending on your prices. You can also offer delivery in order to increase your sales. We’ve had organizations raise as much as $20,000 with our program. Don’t forget to canvas local businesses and building managers!

Where Will The Mulch Be Delivered?

You will need access to a parking lot big enough to unload a tractor trailer in, and to accommodate all the customers who will come to pick up their orders, or for your organization to load up mulch for their own deliveries. Some larger groups have rented a flatbed and a forklift to deliver by the pallet and minimize the number of reload trips.

If this sounds like a good fit for your organization, please contact us. We can offer advice and help, and regular communication will help ensure that your orders are filled quickly and your deliveries are timely. Call our offices at 703-352-1858 today!

The Benefit of Wood Playground Mulch Over Rubber Mulch

At JK Enterprises, we pride ourselves on our top-quality materials, and never more than with our playground mulch. Unlike landscaping mulches, playground mulches are meant to be played on and around, so it’s crucial that it is clean, free from debris and splinter resistant. Additionally, to be labelled “playground” mulch, it is required to be a “certified safety surface” which means, among other things, that it is firm underfoot (so as to be ADA accessible and not cause tumbles) and that it be cushiony enough for landing on if a fearless youngster should fall from the monkey bars. We’ve explained a bit more about playground mulches in another blog post.

But what about the other popular “certified safety surface” for playgrounds? That’s rubber mulch. Rubber mulch is popular for a few reasons. For one thing, it’s “recycling”. It’s made from the millions of tires that wear out every year and that tire companies would have to pay big bucks to dispose of. The very thing that makes it hard to dispose of is what schools and playgrounds like about it -- it doesn’t decompose. That means you never have to top it up as you have to periodically with wood mulches, which break down over time.

Now, we understand that not everyone wants to top up their wood mulch every year or two, but if that’s the case, try pea gravel. We don’t like rubber mulches and here’s why.

The Side Effects of Rubber Mulch

Let’s start with the least-scary reason; the environment. Rubber doesn’t really decompose. It’s kind of like plastic. It just sits there, getting weathered away like so many bottle caps. If the playground ever stops being a playground, the rubber “crumbs” will most likely get turned under the soil. That’s not recycling. That’s polluting. And they’re selling you the pollutants.

The other reason is much more scary. According to some, rubber mulch is not as inert as the marketing materials claim. Although the EPA okayed its use, the very limited study that they did (only two playgrounds) merely tested the risk of lead contamination. However, the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station reported “under relatively mild conditions of temperature and leaching solvent, components of crumb rubber produced from tires (i) volatilize into the vapor phase and (ii) are leached into water in contact with the crumbs.” (source)

Environment and Human Health, a Connecticut-based non-profit research agency, released a report saying, in part, “It is clear that the recycled rubber crumbs are not inert, nor is a high-temperature or severe solvent extraction needed to release metals, volatile organic compounds, or semi-volatile organic compounds. The release of airborne chemicals and dust is well established by the current information...Health endpoints of concern are numerous, including acute irritation of the lungs, skin, and eyes, and chronic irritation of the lung, skin, and eyes. Knowledge is somewhat limited about the effects of semi-volatile chemicals on the kidney, endocrine system, nervous system, cardiovascular system, immune system, developmental effects and the potential to induce cancers,” and that rubber mulch “may not be appropriate for playgrounds with open layers of recycled tire crumbs.”

WAYS TO USE STONE FOR LANDSCAPING

There are so many ways to use stone in your landscaping design that we can’t hope to cover it all in this short article. The best option is really to look through a lot of designs and magazines and do a lot of dreaming out in your yard. There are so many things to do it will take you a fair bit of time to just work out all the options in your mind. But we’ve put together a few ideas to get you started on your quest.

Mix Mediums

You wouldn’t plant all your flowers in one color, would you? So why would you feel constrained to one type of stone? Mixing types or stone, or even mixing in gravel or concrete, is a great way to add interest in a subtle way. You can experiment with patterns, textures, or both! Hardscape is an enduring investment, so you won’t want to feel bored with it after a few years.

Connect With the Landscape

Nearly every yard will have some element of the landscape that you can play up. Maybe it’s a stunning view, a slightly rolling lawn, or numerous shady nooks. Whatever feature defines your landscape, be sure to highlight it, and design to show it off to its best potential, whether that’s paths, walls, raised beds or anything else.

Create Cozy Enclosures

A garden without a place to sit might as well be a hallway — there’s no reason to linger. One of the best places to use stone and other hardscape materials is to pave or otherwise create cozy little nooks that contain a bench or a bistro table. You could just leave these to grass, but then they become a real pain to maintain, what with all those tight corners.

Solve Drainage Problems

One of the perennial issues in Virginia is managing the sheer volume of rain. Gutters and downspouts are a start, but many a gardener has been dismayed to see a flower bed nearly drowned after a week of rainy weather, or a trench gouged out by a torrent. Many types of stone, from pea gravel right up to river stones, can be used to channel water, without becoming soggy and unattractive doing so. You can even dig a deep pit to fill with stones that will function as a catchment and slowly release moisture into your yard on hot days.

One of our favorite ideas is that of a “dry creek bed.” Using stones of different sizes, over weedproof underlayment, use the lay of your land to create a “stream” leading somewhere safe. This feature is equally attractive dry as it is wet, and your yard will never again suffer from lack of drainage.

Be sure to stop by JK Enterprises for a catalog or two to prime the pump of your imagination. And when the time comes, we’ll be happy to help make your dream a reality.

TOPSOIL VS GARDEN SOIL

Though many of us long for a simpler, less chaotic life, closer to nature and its rhythms, the fact remains that most of us are not farmers. So while you might know the difference between clay and sand, it’s no shame that you don’t know the difference between topsoil and garden soil. That is, no doubt, why you’re reading this article.

Soil Isn’t Just Dirt

Soil is not the same as dirt. “Dirt” is just tiny particles of rock. You get “dirt” when you excavate a basement. Soil has microorganisms and organic matter and is able to sustain many kinds of plant life. Dirt is pretty much sterile. A few weeds will grow in it; that’s all.

The Difference Between Topsoil and Garden Soil

The difference between topsoil and garden soil is an even finer distinction than the difference between soil and dirt, and it has to do with the amount of organic matter, and to a lesser extent, the types of trace minerals and the ratio of clay, sand and silt. Garden soil is a category of topsoil.

Topsoil is general purpose, and if there’s no other extenuating factors, is usually installed in bulk quantities in new construction or landscaping. We’re talking tens or hundreds of cubic yards. That’s because after construction the soil has either been stripped or compacted and basically needs replacing. Generic topsoil is just that — generic, so it’s not meant to be amalgamated with old soil. It’s just added on top in enough quantity to support whatever will be seeded on it.

If you want garden soil, however, that usually means you have a little plot somewhere that you want to enrich. For that to work properly, you want to know what type of soil you have.

How to Use Garden Soil

In your existing garden site, you’ll want to determine what kind of soil you have. If it’s sand, the particles will be rather big and the soil is pretty easy to work, but you have trouble tamping it down. If you have clay soil, the particles are very fine, and you’ll notice that the soil tends to harden to a brick-like consistency. What you will want is soil halfway between the two, which is known as loam.

Loam has a good mixture of particle sizes, and it is also a bit fluffy due to the presence of humus, or organic matter (which is usually decomposed leaves and grass). Loam is what you’re going for, so if you have clay soil, you’ll want to order a garden soil that’s mostly sand — if it includes a portion of compost, all the better, as that will take care of the humus part of the good soil equation. If you have sandy soil, do the opposite. And if you have loam already, a mixture with equal parts sand-clay-compost will work. Strictly speaking, you don’t have to have compost, but it’s nature’s fertilizer, so you might as well.

If you’re not sure what kind of soil you have, take it into our offices at JK Enterprises, and we’ll have a look at it and advise you about the best type of garden soil to order.